29 January 2006

A maneapa is a sort of open-air Tuvaluan meeting hall with a roof. They are used for special occasions the way any banquet hall would, but in many ways they are the centers of Tuvaluan social life. During the day kids play in them at night people might sleep in them for the breeze. There is an especially large maneapa with a concrete floor and a modern roof--my guess is that traditional ones would have a coral sand floor and a thatched roof--in between the airport and my guest house, and just across a small square from the government building. On days that flights come in it is full of people; from inside you can see the plane land and the passengers disembark. (Note: the plane was fixed and flew out on Saturday, but the flight scheduled for Sunday was cancelled--apparently no one from the flight crew showed up in Suva.) This particular maneapa is also where parliament meets and serves as a makeshift courthouse.

This weekend it hosted to a large wedding reception, island-style. Tuvalu was converted to Christianity--the Protestant Church of Tuvalu, of which 97 percent of the islanders are members--more than 100 years ago, so the wedding itself took place in a church somewhere with the bride in a white gown.

She later changed into more traditional island clothing, a dress decorated with pandanus leaves and flowers. I believe that is her directly to the left of the festive woman in red. A number of pigs were slaughtered for the occasion and brought in in giant woven baskets. For a reason I do not understand, the pig pictured here was stabbed through with skewers that had cigarettes, which you can see in the picture, along them. Unfortunately, I didn’t see anyone drinking hot toddy, the local homebrew made of fermented coconut sap, which I am determined to try before I leave. The whole thing was wrapped up by 10:00 because everyone had church in the morning.

5 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Do they light the cigarettes during the ceremony? Are you keeping vegetarian while you're there?

12:08 AM  
Blogger Samir S. Patel said...

They didn't light the cigarettes as far as I could tell. I'm not sure what happened to them. Vegetarian? Why do you ask? It would be almost impossible to be vegetarian here and have anything to eat.

6:07 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

like the cigarettes. when my brother was in pre-revolution iran they welcomed him by spelling out welcome ralf on the ceiling with cigarette butts. often their use ifs simply a show of wealth and power i.e., look at all the cigs we can waste don't we rule. hmm the hot toddy sounds very good.

5:36 PM  
Blogger Samir S. Patel said...

That's a good theory on the significance of the cigarettes.

I'd bring back some hot toddy for you if there was any chance it would keep. But I'll at least try to get a recipe.

6:17 PM  
Blogger Samir S. Patel said...

I didn't see where they cooked the pork, and because they only slaughter pigs for special occasions, I don't know that I'll see them do it. But there are several pan-Pacific-type traditions here, and the people here are Polynesian in descent (as opposed to Melansian and Micronesian), so I would guess that they do.

9:06 PM  

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