Here is the Buada Lagoon I mentioned before. You can see the enclosure that is probably used to raise milkfish. At one time, the entire lagoon was sectioned off, but now I'm told that there are probably only two families that still do this.
This is what much of the areas of the island that were mined a long time ago--this was probably mined in the 50s and 60s--looked like. While a lot of it is overgrown, in between these dense and incredibly jagged limestone towers are pits that can drop five stories in some cases. Any place that has been mined is all but impassable.
And here is a couple of shots of the decrepit phosphate works. All of this is supposed to be fixed up with money from an Australian fertilizer company early next year, at which point the government will begin mining whatever phosphate is left. It is in pretty atrocious shape. But there is akind of beauty in this decay, I think.
No news on flights yet. I contacted the U.S. Embassy, which is in Suva, Fiji. I registered with them before I left, but I don't think anyone looked at that list or tried to contact me to see that I would be able to get out. Their advice? Get out. Now. Thanks. Is 400 miles too far to paddle in an outrigger canoe?
There is a flight to Australia this weekend, but it is full and I would be responsible for getting from there back to Fiji. Air Nauru says they will have a flight next week and I have tried to make clear that I WILL be on it. But there's no real telling where it will go and no guarantee I will have a seat (although I'm not above serving drinks or clinging to the wing at this point). Eh. Tomorrow will take care of itself. I just keep repeating that, but I'm not sure it means what they think it means.
4 Comments:
Ha! That's very funny. i do not think it means what you think it means. :-) Well I have a 40-foot canoe right here, as it happens, so if you decide to get out the native way, just let me know. Hope things work out soon!
beth
Samir,
400 miles on an outrigger canoe may not be too long of a trip. Apparently ancient Polynesians could find an island 200 miles away from it. "Collapse" explains how they did it. Bring the book in case you set out, it makes for good re-reading in the high seas (you could also bring Moby Dick, it teaches you how to procure your food while sailing). Great photos of the phosphate works!
Yeah, I think polynesians could go even farther in one of those things, but they were very skilled seafarers with lots of experience and they traveled in groups and knew how to navigate. Plus, I would be shooting for a single island, otherwise it is a thousand miles to Papua New Guinea. I would last about two miles and then start gnawing on my own leg and chugging sea water.
I read "Collapse" before I left and I think the Nauru experience almost reads like another chapter. I'd actually like to ask Jared Diamond why he chose not to include it.
Ahhh the sweetness of the 3rd world. Gotta love it.
Chris
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